Recently I heard a fascinating story from an old friend.
In an organization which shall remain unnamed, there were three team leaders, one US-educated, one Japan-educated, and one Singapore-educated--college, that is.
When faced with a project, the US graduate's team could usually define the problem and come up with a plan to tackle the problem.
The Japan graduate's team needed help most of the time in defining the problem and would spend more time formulating a plan, but would often come up with the best solution.
Alas, the Singapore graduate's team needed the most guidance and often could not perform either task well.
Thoughts?
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Saturday, December 13, 2008
上海滩 from 浦东
Apparently, Dongdong had never seen low tide on the 黄浦江 before. To me, everything was new anyway and the view was certainly spectacular. So this was Shanghai. Number 1 in Asia in the early 1900s before civil unrest, war and everything. I thought about Cheng Nien's Life and Death in Shanghai, and about the rapid pace of change happening nowadays. Dongdong said that every 2-3 years, everything changes. Until the 2010 Expo, streets will be repaved, households will be relocated, spanking new buildings, new train lines will be built. But I hope 小杨生煎 will still be there.
西伊豆の夕日、Sunset in West Izu
This sunset has to be the most spectacular one I've seen in a long while. The last one was probably... back in the Florida Keys during Spring Break in college. Gazing out at the ocean, seeing the horizon curving ever so slightly, all my worries (lucky to not have many in the first place) just slipped away.
上海大闸蟹
Finally got a chance to taste the genuine laser-tagged Shanghai hairy crab! Very different from Sri Lankan mud crabs and tasty in its own way. Have to say that the female is yummier than the male. Well-worth the price.
Tuesday, December 09, 2008
Tanah Merah MRT
Every time I set out from home, be it heading to school, to the wet market, to the hawker centres for a bite or to meet friends in town, I would inevitably end up on the West-bound platform of Tanah Merah MRT station.
"Boon Lay / Yishun train coming in 3 minutes..." the digital display usually reads.
I would be standing on the platform, trying not to perspire, "心静自然凉" as they say, but more often than not resistance against the tropical sun was futile.
Ever since the station was built back in the late 80s, I've watched, even counted, a tidy row of 96 (or is it 97?) saplings steadily growing from the hillside opposite the platform.
(What the picture shows is actually the East-bound side)
Those 96 little buddies always waited with me, be it sun or rain or flashing thunderstorm, seeing me off safely onto the train and waiting for me to come home. Now they tower above me with their stout branches and lush leaves reaching for the sky and almost casting shadows on the station itself.
How many birds, squirrels and little critters have rested beneath the 96 canopies, how many generations of commuters have they seen everyday, waiting for the MRT?
I look forward to seeing you guys soon.
"Boon Lay / Yishun train coming in 3 minutes..." the digital display usually reads.
I would be standing on the platform, trying not to perspire, "心静自然凉" as they say, but more often than not resistance against the tropical sun was futile.
Ever since the station was built back in the late 80s, I've watched, even counted, a tidy row of 96 (or is it 97?) saplings steadily growing from the hillside opposite the platform.
(What the picture shows is actually the East-bound side)
Those 96 little buddies always waited with me, be it sun or rain or flashing thunderstorm, seeing me off safely onto the train and waiting for me to come home. Now they tower above me with their stout branches and lush leaves reaching for the sky and almost casting shadows on the station itself.
How many birds, squirrels and little critters have rested beneath the 96 canopies, how many generations of commuters have they seen everyday, waiting for the MRT?
I look forward to seeing you guys soon.
Monday, November 24, 2008
Still alive
This post is in reply to Datou's enquiry as to whether I am still alive as my last post was when the leaves were still green on the trees.
Now it's 8C outside and raining. I'm wondering if I should go out for dinner, but a promise is a promise...
Got lots of updates coming soon... watch this space.
Now it's 8C outside and raining. I'm wondering if I should go out for dinner, but a promise is a promise...
Got lots of updates coming soon... watch this space.
Thursday, August 14, 2008
善 and Karma
ある日、仕事が終わった後、大きい通りに沿って自転車に乗っていた。家と近い所の横道を渡る時、いきなり飛んで来た白い車にぶつかったよ。運転手が降りて電話番号を聞かれたが、私はショックでボーッとしていたので、彼のを聞かなかったんだ。
きっと連絡してくれると思ったけど、結局甘えすぎて、連絡全然なかったんだ。
相手の善を信じたかったのに。
最悪。
きっと連絡してくれると思ったけど、結局甘えすぎて、連絡全然なかったんだ。
相手の善を信じたかったのに。
最悪。
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Of Gay Wizards and Amnesty International
A little late to the scene, but recently I had the pleasure of listening to a recording of J K Rowlings' speech at Harvard's commencement 2008.
She began with light-hearted, delightful British wit and slowly built it up to more far-reaching, important themes, flawlessly capturing her listeners' attention much like how her books do.
Here's the link: http://harvardmagazine.com/go/jkrowling.html
Hope you like it as much as I did!
She began with light-hearted, delightful British wit and slowly built it up to more far-reaching, important themes, flawlessly capturing her listeners' attention much like how her books do.
Here's the link: http://harvardmagazine.com/go/jkrowling.html
Hope you like it as much as I did!
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
What could be out of place in this picture?
It's a normal garbage truck doing its rounds in Tokyo...
Climbing Mt Fuji 富士山登山旅
Here it all began... tour buses dropped off happy, smiling hikers--young & old, armed to the teeth with the latest gear or dressed to the nines in clothes perhaps more suitable for strutting along Omotesando in.
Still deceptively flat and cooler than expected. The trail was somewhat gravelly but grainy enough to feel slight soft underfoot. Many other hikers were walking in double-file, and almost everyone coming the other way (downhill) wore an expression of such fatigue and utter bleakness that I began to question my decision to ascend this symbol of Japan.
Mostly volcanic rock on the way up; hard, knobby but non-slippery surfaces with plenty of handholds around. Won't be pleasant to come down on, I thought to myself. Everyone was still relatively perky at that point and looking up, we could see the little rest huts and a constant stream of hikers stretching up as far as the eye could see.
Caught up with the lowest vestiges of the ever-ascending clouds, borne upwards by the hot lowland drafts. As the moisture get swept up, they provide shade for us hikers and kept the snow from melting completely. In a long-sleeved, I started to feel a little chilly.
At the 8th station, we supped and napped until about 10:30pm. The rest house, 東洋館(TouYouKan), was very new compared to the others before it and I was happy tp sink into the clean futon and blankets after dinner. Dinner was a set meal consisting of a hamburger steak and miso soup. Sorry L for forgetting that you don't eat red meat!
Time: 22:30. Gathered outside with all gear and two additional layers of clothing. Almost lost L and L in the crowd as the guide did a rollcall. A long string of lights meandered its way up the mountain. Air of anticipation. Temperature: 3C, 0C with windchill
For a while, it was "step where the person in front stepped before and continue upwards" as we climbed a layer of volcanic rock. The guide said it was a good thing that we couldn't see our surroundings otherwise more people would throw in the towel. Several members of our group started vomiting and experiencing altitude sickness, but stoically pressed on. The winds got stronger gradually but my resolve was strengthened by the morning rays peeping over the horizon.
Fellow hikers trudge up patiently, tired but never giving up on reaching the summit in time for the sunrise. Would we make it in time, I wonder?
The sun god opens his eyes, sending golden rays across a sea of clouds. Almost there, not sure how much more to go, but I felt revitalized and a spring returned to my limbs. It was cold and exertion was the only way to keep warm. Tried to stay close to the group perhaps because it's Japan and the need to stick with your herd was emphasized by the guide, even on the mountain.
And let there be LIGHT
The destination is definitely better than the journey
Riding the warm air currents
Can't wait to get down and into the onsen!
Still deceptively flat and cooler than expected. The trail was somewhat gravelly but grainy enough to feel slight soft underfoot. Many other hikers were walking in double-file, and almost everyone coming the other way (downhill) wore an expression of such fatigue and utter bleakness that I began to question my decision to ascend this symbol of Japan.
Mostly volcanic rock on the way up; hard, knobby but non-slippery surfaces with plenty of handholds around. Won't be pleasant to come down on, I thought to myself. Everyone was still relatively perky at that point and looking up, we could see the little rest huts and a constant stream of hikers stretching up as far as the eye could see.
Caught up with the lowest vestiges of the ever-ascending clouds, borne upwards by the hot lowland drafts. As the moisture get swept up, they provide shade for us hikers and kept the snow from melting completely. In a long-sleeved, I started to feel a little chilly.
At the 8th station, we supped and napped until about 10:30pm. The rest house, 東洋館(TouYouKan), was very new compared to the others before it and I was happy tp sink into the clean futon and blankets after dinner. Dinner was a set meal consisting of a hamburger steak and miso soup. Sorry L for forgetting that you don't eat red meat!
Time: 22:30. Gathered outside with all gear and two additional layers of clothing. Almost lost L and L in the crowd as the guide did a rollcall. A long string of lights meandered its way up the mountain. Air of anticipation. Temperature: 3C, 0C with windchill
For a while, it was "step where the person in front stepped before and continue upwards" as we climbed a layer of volcanic rock. The guide said it was a good thing that we couldn't see our surroundings otherwise more people would throw in the towel. Several members of our group started vomiting and experiencing altitude sickness, but stoically pressed on. The winds got stronger gradually but my resolve was strengthened by the morning rays peeping over the horizon.
Fellow hikers trudge up patiently, tired but never giving up on reaching the summit in time for the sunrise. Would we make it in time, I wonder?
The sun god opens his eyes, sending golden rays across a sea of clouds. Almost there, not sure how much more to go, but I felt revitalized and a spring returned to my limbs. It was cold and exertion was the only way to keep warm. Tried to stay close to the group perhaps because it's Japan and the need to stick with your herd was emphasized by the guide, even on the mountain.
And let there be LIGHT
The destination is definitely better than the journey
Riding the warm air currents
Can't wait to get down and into the onsen!
Friday, July 11, 2008
Preparing for Mt. Fuji
Meeting time and place: 7:10am sharp at the 西改札口 (West Exit turnstile) in 新宿 (Shinjuku) Station
Items to bring:
---------------
- Hat: Something that can protect the head from direct sunlight or cold. One with a brim would be great.
- Outer shell: Separate jacket and pants that are waterproof and offer protection from cold. Goretex ones are great.
- Backpack: 20~30-liter capacity, waterproof backpack.
- Water bottle: At least 1-liter capacity water bottle.
- Lamp/Flashlight/Torch: Whatever you call it, just have something to light your way when we climb at night. Preferably a headlamp or something you can use hands-free. New batteries!
- Gloves: To warm our delicate, Oil-Of-Ulan-smoothened hands.
- Shoes: Comfortable, broken-into, hiking shoes. Very important--no tennis shoes or running shoes because it is hard for others to carry an injured friend down the mountain.
- Pants: Light ones. Jeans become heavy when wet.
- Sweater: It'll be cold near the summit and in the wee hours.
- Long-sleeved comfy tee: For the sun and cold; quick-dry fabric's good
- Moisture-absorbent, quick-dry socks: Hiking socks are good.
- Small towel
- Toilet paper
- Plastic bag to hold the contents of your backpack and keep them from getting wet
- Plastic sheet to lie down on if the rest hut's futon is too dirty
- Camera
- Watch
- Band-aids
- Sunscreen
- Snacks / Breakfast for Saturday
- Health insurance card
- Money
Fitness
-------
Because we are going above 10,000 ft, our bodies will be affected by the attitude, making us easily breathless and susceptible to dizziness due to a decreased ability to absorb oxygen. As much as possible, please exercise starting now before we head up. For example, climb the stairs or go running with a backpack. Sounds silly but will help a lot!
Itinerary:
----------
(July 12 Sat):
- Take a 7:30am bus from 新宿 -> arrive at 富士山河口湖5合目 (Mt Fuji Lake Kawaguchi 5th Station) at 11:30 (2304m)
- Find our own food
- Set off for the 8合目 (8th Station) at 13:30, about a 4-hr hike up to 2910m until 17:30
- Rest at a small mountain rest hut called "東洋館" (Touyoukan) until 23:30 before setting off for the summit (3776m)
Shared room (dudes and dudettes), no private bathroom or toilet.
(July 13 Sun)
- Arrive at summit at 4:30am to watch sunrise amidst a sea of clouds.
- Bento provided--hamburger steak & rice.
- Head down at 5:30am for the 5合目, aim to arrive there at 10am
- Set off at 11:30am by bus to 山中湖温泉 (Yamanakako Onsen) at 12:30am
- Leave for 新宿 at 15:00, get back around 18:30.
Items to bring:
---------------
- Hat: Something that can protect the head from direct sunlight or cold. One with a brim would be great.
- Outer shell: Separate jacket and pants that are waterproof and offer protection from cold. Goretex ones are great.
- Backpack: 20~30-liter capacity, waterproof backpack.
- Water bottle: At least 1-liter capacity water bottle.
- Lamp/Flashlight/Torch: Whatever you call it, just have something to light your way when we climb at night. Preferably a headlamp or something you can use hands-free. New batteries!
- Gloves: To warm our delicate, Oil-Of-Ulan-smoothened hands.
- Shoes: Comfortable, broken-into, hiking shoes. Very important--no tennis shoes or running shoes because it is hard for others to carry an injured friend down the mountain.
- Pants: Light ones. Jeans become heavy when wet.
- Sweater: It'll be cold near the summit and in the wee hours.
- Long-sleeved comfy tee: For the sun and cold; quick-dry fabric's good
- Moisture-absorbent, quick-dry socks: Hiking socks are good.
- Small towel
- Toilet paper
- Plastic bag to hold the contents of your backpack and keep them from getting wet
- Plastic sheet to lie down on if the rest hut's futon is too dirty
- Camera
- Watch
- Band-aids
- Sunscreen
- Snacks / Breakfast for Saturday
- Health insurance card
- Money
Fitness
-------
Because we are going above 10,000 ft, our bodies will be affected by the attitude, making us easily breathless and susceptible to dizziness due to a decreased ability to absorb oxygen. As much as possible, please exercise starting now before we head up. For example, climb the stairs or go running with a backpack. Sounds silly but will help a lot!
Itinerary:
----------
(July 12 Sat):
- Take a 7:30am bus from 新宿 -> arrive at 富士山河口湖5合目 (Mt Fuji Lake Kawaguchi 5th Station) at 11:30 (2304m)
- Find our own food
- Set off for the 8合目 (8th Station) at 13:30, about a 4-hr hike up to 2910m until 17:30
- Rest at a small mountain rest hut called "東洋館" (Touyoukan) until 23:30 before setting off for the summit (3776m)
Shared room (dudes and dudettes), no private bathroom or toilet.
(July 13 Sun)
- Arrive at summit at 4:30am to watch sunrise amidst a sea of clouds.
- Bento provided--hamburger steak & rice.
- Head down at 5:30am for the 5合目, aim to arrive there at 10am
- Set off at 11:30am by bus to 山中湖温泉 (Yamanakako Onsen) at 12:30am
- Leave for 新宿 at 15:00, get back around 18:30.
Monday, May 26, 2008
群馬舞茸そば
群馬舞茸そば
This was savoured during a weekend trip to Gunma prefecture, north of Tokyo. A natural, relatively earthquake-free region.
Other titbits:
Natural groundwater: Huge Shinkansen (bullet train) tunnels were dug through the mountains of this prefecture. Abundant supplies of natural groundwater were discovered, resulting in a thriving spring water industry. Our bed-and-breakfast proudly served natural Gunma water.
Ghosts following us home from firefly cemetery: After dinner, before we set off for a trail to view fireflies, the kindly host lady warned us to be careful not to bring "dirty things" home as the trail goes through a graveyard.
Empty school buildings along the way to the convenience store added to a fun eeriness. At night, the windows look like gaping eyes and mouths, and as with any place that is bustling in the day and deserted at night, one projected lingering echoes of the daytime activities into the still of the night.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
A temple of many deities
In Tainan (台南), after satisfying our palates, we sought out 鹿耳門, a famous local temple, for some spiritual nourishment. As you can see in the pictures, that place was huge, and could be packed with pilgrims on a good day, but on the day we went it was largely serene.
YJ and 小J went about snapping pictures while their parents and me stopped by each deity to pay our respects. Every few minutes, a large bell would toll in deep, dutiful tones which echo all around the halls. A lot of faith and effort and money had gone into its construction and I could almost sense the piety and belief of all those worshipers who came before me.
"Dear Buddha, please bless my family with good health and happiness."
"Great Mazu, goddess of the sea, please keep this world at peace."
"Emperor of Heaven, please accept my greetings and bestow your blessings upon us."
Amidst the fragrance of incense smoke and gentle murmurs of other visitors, I paid my respects to almost all of the deities who resided in 鹿耳門.
But the most interesting incident was yet to come. "Hey, hey! On the 3rd floor, quick, go!" YJ's mum beckoned to me happily. "Go pay your respects to the 月下老人。”
The 月下老人 was supposedly a kindly old man with a pet heron who visited an Emperor of the Tang Dynasty one moonlit night and correctly foretold who his future wife would be. He had since been beatified and is the deity whom millions go to in search of love.
However when I went upstairs, I had no idea what he looked like! Memories of red threads (one for each person, that links to his/her other half), herons and a full moon from childhood tales floated in my head, but I just couldn't put a face to the name...
Nope, this deity looks too fierce, this one's a lady, that one over there, can't be holding such a huge sword, nope, nope, not that one either. That's Zhong Kui, the Ghost Hunter. Those whom I wasn't quite sure, I prayed to anyway, just in case ;)
Clues started to appear; as I rounded a corner, I saw photos, dozens and dozens of photos of happy couples, beaming from every available space on the walls! Apparently, testimonies to the romance-bestowing powers of this ancient Chinese Cupid. And there he was, smiling down on me beside his graceful heron. Poor old man, I wonder where his other half is?
I made my wish, thanked him, and left, strangely feeling lighter of heart.
Temple of Mazu
YJ and 小J went about snapping pictures while their parents and me stopped by each deity to pay our respects. Every few minutes, a large bell would toll in deep, dutiful tones which echo all around the halls. A lot of faith and effort and money had gone into its construction and I could almost sense the piety and belief of all those worshipers who came before me.
Inner courtyard
"Dear Buddha, please bless my family with good health and happiness."
"Great Mazu, goddess of the sea, please keep this world at peace."
"Emperor of Heaven, please accept my greetings and bestow your blessings upon us."
Rescuing loved ones from an angry sea
Amidst the fragrance of incense smoke and gentle murmurs of other visitors, I paid my respects to almost all of the deities who resided in 鹿耳門.
But the most interesting incident was yet to come. "Hey, hey! On the 3rd floor, quick, go!" YJ's mum beckoned to me happily. "Go pay your respects to the 月下老人。”
The 月下老人 was supposedly a kindly old man with a pet heron who visited an Emperor of the Tang Dynasty one moonlit night and correctly foretold who his future wife would be. He had since been beatified and is the deity whom millions go to in search of love.
However when I went upstairs, I had no idea what he looked like! Memories of red threads (one for each person, that links to his/her other half), herons and a full moon from childhood tales floated in my head, but I just couldn't put a face to the name...
Nope, this deity looks too fierce, this one's a lady, that one over there, can't be holding such a huge sword, nope, nope, not that one either. That's Zhong Kui, the Ghost Hunter. Those whom I wasn't quite sure, I prayed to anyway, just in case ;)
Clues started to appear; as I rounded a corner, I saw photos, dozens and dozens of photos of happy couples, beaming from every available space on the walls! Apparently, testimonies to the romance-bestowing powers of this ancient Chinese Cupid. And there he was, smiling down on me beside his graceful heron. Poor old man, I wonder where his other half is?
I made my wish, thanked him, and left, strangely feeling lighter of heart.
Monday, May 19, 2008
Kaohsiung Day 4: Nostalgic bites
Days of absorbing new yet sometimes familiar sights, sounds, tastes, and smells left me hungering for more. I was most impressed by the people I met on the streets. Hospitable, friendly, schooled in the ways of life yet humble and very approachable. Eatery staff who'd tell me not to buy too much in case the egg puffs go bad. Bubble-tea vendors who'd enquire after J's parents, cousins, uncles' little dogs, etc. It all harked back to an olden time.
This day saw us drive to 台南 (Tainan), J's mum's hometown, to visit her aunt. My education of things Taiwanese continued in the car: did I know that there are different grades of Taiwan-grown pineapples, all named after precious stones? That Chiang Kai-shek's descendants did more for the country than him? For example, all over the country, busts of this rogue-ish general were being dismantled to make way for more deserving candidates. Not forgetting that Chiang Kai-shek International Airport had been renamed Taiwan International Airport.
It was my second trip to Tainan; the history of this historic city never failed to fascinate me. A Dutch colony in the distant past, it also witnessed the landing of 鄭和(Zheng He) (curiously named Koxinga by the Dutch afterwards), the legendary Ming Dynasty enunch/naval explorer who extended the Chinese kingdom's reach throughout much of Asia (and some say, discovered North America before "Columbus sailed the ocean blue") But I will let the historians to debate this...
More importantly ;) lunch was about to begin at a traditional eatery:
Apparently simplicity and nostalgia was the menu of the day and murmurs of delight soon greeted each humble dish as it arrived:
This day saw us drive to 台南 (Tainan), J's mum's hometown, to visit her aunt. My education of things Taiwanese continued in the car: did I know that there are different grades of Taiwan-grown pineapples, all named after precious stones? That Chiang Kai-shek's descendants did more for the country than him? For example, all over the country, busts of this rogue-ish general were being dismantled to make way for more deserving candidates. Not forgetting that Chiang Kai-shek International Airport had been renamed Taiwan International Airport.
It was my second trip to Tainan; the history of this historic city never failed to fascinate me. A Dutch colony in the distant past, it also witnessed the landing of 鄭和(Zheng He) (curiously named Koxinga by the Dutch afterwards), the legendary Ming Dynasty enunch/naval explorer who extended the Chinese kingdom's reach throughout much of Asia (and some say, discovered North America before "Columbus sailed the ocean blue") But I will let the historians to debate this...
More importantly ;) lunch was about to begin at a traditional eatery:
Nostalgic Bites
Apparently simplicity and nostalgia was the menu of the day and murmurs of delight soon greeted each humble dish as it arrived:
Oyster omelette
Clam soup
More food
A pretty special dessert: Iced crispy yams
This was unlike anything I've ever eaten--yams fried and coated with sugar before being dipped into iced water. The cold crystallized the outer layer of sugar, making the entire slice delightfully crispy.
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Kaohsiung Day 3: The Southern Coast
高雄(Kaohsiung) is 台灣(Taiwan)'s largest southernmost city; she boasts a thriving city center, rustic suburbs, a bustling fishing port and even tropical fruit plantations. The weather is less humid than that of Singapore's (read: pretty darn warm) Pineapples, guavas, wax apples(jambu), bananas and coconuts are some of the more famous exports. To her southeast, the seaside resort of 墾丁(Kenting) awaits--a popular surfing and picnicking destination for locals and tourists alike. 東港(East Port) the fishing port even has a 鮪魚(tuna) auction not unlike that of Tokyo's 築地(Tsukiji) Fish Market. To my untrained palate, the quality of 東港's tuna sashimi is comparable to that of 築地's and of course, less expensive.
The 3rd day began with a solitary trip to the corner breakfast place because the Chen's were gone to run errands by the time I was up. Only 小J was snoozing. Did I mention that Kaohsiung's residents were all very friendly and everyone we asked for directions obliged with a smile? The breakfast lady was no exception; she actually remembered me from the day before and we chatted happily while she prepared the yummy sandwiches. I wanted to get a burger but she actually advised me not to! Because, "Your marginal utility won't be all that great by the time you get to the burger," or something to that effect! Wow. Best of all, she actually asked me to help open a tightly-shut new jar of sauce... to me that was a sign of acceptance into the neighborhood.
I mean, people in the food & beverage business are trained to be polite to customers and all, and usually one wouldn't ask a customer for help. At least I can't imagine something like this happening in Japan, where good service is taken for granted yet a well demarcation exists between store personnel and customers. In a way, being asked to unscrew a jar made my day. (Isn't it nice to be so easily satisfied? ;P)
But I digress... on this day, we are headed for the southern coast of Taiwan, a tropical region of smaller towns, beaches and natural sights. Kenting, a famous surfing resort town, awaited.
Hopped into the car, placed a potted plant in the driveway to deter illegal parking, and off we went, driving past 東港(where the best 鲔鱼 or tuna could be found) and 恆春(Eternal Spring).
For lunch, it was imperative that we stopped at a place that sold Chinese medicinal herb-flavored dishes like vermicelli or
Their 龟鳞糕(Guilinggao) was also very good and the ladies were particularly happy to partake of this herbal jelly which purportedly was beneficial for one's complexion. The origins of 龟鳞糕 were always interesting to read about.
Anyone who has been around fumaroles, mudpots and steam vents in places like Yellowstone Nat'l Park probably cannot fail to be awed at the forces that laid just beneath our earth's crust. Well, Taiwan also has many hot springs and other traces of simmering underground activity, for we encountered an interesting phenomenon next:
Someone (don't ask me how!) found natural, flammable gas emitting from the ground and took a lit match to all available fissures, ensuring a perpetual campfire over which the local residents could roast yams and sweet potatoes. Recently, that area became a designated natural monument sort of place.
"佳樂水(Jialeshui), 佳樂水," Uncle and Auntie Chen kept saying along the way. Catchy name, but what on earth was it, I wondered, as YJ and 小J snored away beside me on the backseat. We entered Kenting National Park, a vast expanse set aside for recreation and conservation.
The answer came shortly as we drew up to an arched entrance and a ticket booth. "Welcome to Jialeshui" signs adorned the simple yet fitting entrance along with pamphlets advertising a very intriguing "Flying Fish season." Flying fish, eh?! But I still had no idea until we drove through a narrow road lined by palm trees and arrived at a huge parking lot overlooking the ocean.
"Quick, the tour bus is just about to leave!" shooed Auntie Chen as we scrambled onboard a refurbished pickup truck. Pictures of weird rock formations revealed the nature of the tour and I finally realized, oh, we're going on a coastal drive!
And... the driver started speaking in Taiwanese, which always sounded very nostalgic but cryptic to me because my grandparents used to speak a variant of it. To think I would hear it in the present day on a national park tour! :D
So the geography and language lessons began...
In a nutshell, this was:
No time to lose, if we are to be back in Kaohsiung's 東港 by dinnertime, we should start driving towards the southern tip of Taiwan. Rain drops started splattering on the rocks and with 小J muttering that it always rained whenever he visited Jialeshui, we hit the road again. Too bad we didn't see any flying fish...
There we were, as far south as one could go on Formosa. It reminded me of Key West in the Florida Keys and the "Southernmost point" there. The Philippines laid just a few hundred kilometers away and we could almost glimpse her coastline. Around us, occasionally, radar installations poked their heads out from amidst the foliage in the surrounding hills. The rain had long since stopped, leaving just a hint of moisture in the now cooler air.
As we made our way back up north, little towns mostly inhabited by 客家人(the Hakka ethnicity) and by the 原住民(Taiwan Aborigines if you will although I find the term slightly condescending for people who lived on the island long before the first European colonists. But perhaps long ago they had taken over the place from someone else. We territorial humans...). Like native Americans, 原住民 have a history of oppression and one joke "they" quip is that 外省人(people who moved to Taiwan from mainland China) bully 客家人(also from the mainland but were living in Taiwan long before the mass Kuomintang exodus) who, in turn, bully 原住民 and finally 原住民 "bully" the animals of Taiwan. BUT, due to recent animal conservation and poaching laws, even the animals lord it over 原住民 nowadays!
I think 原住民 rock.
The 3rd day began with a solitary trip to the corner breakfast place because the Chen's were gone to run errands by the time I was up. Only 小J was snoozing. Did I mention that Kaohsiung's residents were all very friendly and everyone we asked for directions obliged with a smile? The breakfast lady was no exception; she actually remembered me from the day before and we chatted happily while she prepared the yummy sandwiches. I wanted to get a burger but she actually advised me not to! Because, "Your marginal utility won't be all that great by the time you get to the burger," or something to that effect! Wow. Best of all, she actually asked me to help open a tightly-shut new jar of sauce... to me that was a sign of acceptance into the neighborhood.
I mean, people in the food & beverage business are trained to be polite to customers and all, and usually one wouldn't ask a customer for help. At least I can't imagine something like this happening in Japan, where good service is taken for granted yet a well demarcation exists between store personnel and customers. In a way, being asked to unscrew a jar made my day. (Isn't it nice to be so easily satisfied? ;P)
But I digress... on this day, we are headed for the southern coast of Taiwan, a tropical region of smaller towns, beaches and natural sights. Kenting, a famous surfing resort town, awaited.
Hopped into the car, placed a potted plant in the driveway to deter illegal parking, and off we went, driving past 東港(where the best 鲔鱼 or tuna could be found) and 恆春(Eternal Spring).
For lunch, it was imperative that we stopped at a place that sold Chinese medicinal herb-flavored dishes like vermicelli or
藥膳面線
Their 龟鳞糕(Guilinggao) was also very good and the ladies were particularly happy to partake of this herbal jelly which purportedly was beneficial for one's complexion. The origins of 龟鳞糕 were always interesting to read about.
Anyone who has been around fumaroles, mudpots and steam vents in places like Yellowstone Nat'l Park probably cannot fail to be awed at the forces that laid just beneath our earth's crust. Well, Taiwan also has many hot springs and other traces of simmering underground activity, for we encountered an interesting phenomenon next:
Natural gas fire.
Someone (don't ask me how!) found natural, flammable gas emitting from the ground and took a lit match to all available fissures, ensuring a perpetual campfire over which the local residents could roast yams and sweet potatoes. Recently, that area became a designated natural monument sort of place.
"佳樂水(Jialeshui), 佳樂水," Uncle and Auntie Chen kept saying along the way. Catchy name, but what on earth was it, I wondered, as YJ and 小J snored away beside me on the backseat. We entered Kenting National Park, a vast expanse set aside for recreation and conservation.
The answer came shortly as we drew up to an arched entrance and a ticket booth. "Welcome to Jialeshui" signs adorned the simple yet fitting entrance along with pamphlets advertising a very intriguing "Flying Fish season." Flying fish, eh?! But I still had no idea until we drove through a narrow road lined by palm trees and arrived at a huge parking lot overlooking the ocean.
"Quick, the tour bus is just about to leave!" shooed Auntie Chen as we scrambled onboard a refurbished pickup truck. Pictures of weird rock formations revealed the nature of the tour and I finally realized, oh, we're going on a coastal drive!
And... the driver started speaking in Taiwanese, which always sounded very nostalgic but cryptic to me because my grandparents used to speak a variant of it. To think I would hear it in the present day on a national park tour! :D
So the geography and language lessons began...
Pig on its side, with trotters in the air
A Snail
The Frog Prince
Portrait of 觀音, the Goddess of Mercy
Oink!
Map of Taiwan
Mickey!
In a nutshell, this was:
Jialeshui
No time to lose, if we are to be back in Kaohsiung's 東港 by dinnertime, we should start driving towards the southern tip of Taiwan. Rain drops started splattering on the rocks and with 小J muttering that it always rained whenever he visited Jialeshui, we hit the road again. Too bad we didn't see any flying fish...
Southernmost point
There we were, as far south as one could go on Formosa. It reminded me of Key West in the Florida Keys and the "Southernmost point" there. The Philippines laid just a few hundred kilometers away and we could almost glimpse her coastline. Around us, occasionally, radar installations poked their heads out from amidst the foliage in the surrounding hills. The rain had long since stopped, leaving just a hint of moisture in the now cooler air.
As we made our way back up north, little towns mostly inhabited by 客家人(the Hakka ethnicity) and by the 原住民(Taiwan Aborigines if you will although I find the term slightly condescending for people who lived on the island long before the first European colonists. But perhaps long ago they had taken over the place from someone else. We territorial humans...). Like native Americans, 原住民 have a history of oppression and one joke "they" quip is that 外省人(people who moved to Taiwan from mainland China) bully 客家人(also from the mainland but were living in Taiwan long before the mass Kuomintang exodus) who, in turn, bully 原住民 and finally 原住民 "bully" the animals of Taiwan. BUT, due to recent animal conservation and poaching laws, even the animals lord it over 原住民 nowadays!
I think 原住民 rock.
Thursday, May 08, 2008
Kaohsiung Day 2: Downtown
It was typical summer weather--28 degrees C but thanks to a special cooling bamboo bedsheet(reminiscent of the gongfu-enhancing 冰床 in 神雕俠呂) and a standing fan, I slept in comfort. The night before, I was stupid enough to watch, together with YJ and 小J, a talkshow on supernatural activity in Taiwan, particularly that involving dead relatives coming back in dreams to express dissatisfaction at their funeral arrangements or to protest against their untimely deaths. Watching this type of eerie show right before I was to sleep alone in an unfamiliar house was not really a good idea... fortunately the night was uneventful.
When hunger pangs struck next morning, we headed to the corner breakfast place where, as usual, the staff recognized the 陳s(Chen)s on sight and chatted like old friends. I've seldom had such an inexpensive and wonderful breakfast. Sandwiches should be made this way everywhere *yum*.
Replenished, we headed to the local market.
The sun beat down like a hammer, but every vendor seemed oblivious, enthusiastically touting their wares. Apparently it was a nomadic market, in the sense that different vendors showed up each day, some on alternating days. According to the ladies, one had to spend time unearthing gems. 小J and I quickly wilted though, and after a futile attempt at cooling off by eating some 鳳梨(pineapple) and 蓮霧(wax apple/jambu) topped off with 奶茶青(Milk Tea Green--some things just don't translate smoothly but take my word for it--it's pretty refreshing), we retreated to a nearby air-conditioned (for the umpteenth time, I paid homage to the inventors of air-con) department store to browse magazines. The local department store was just like any other one--comprehensive yet soulless.
In the true tradition of a hot summer's afternoon, activities came to a standstill for a siesta. I could almost hear the crickets chirping in the background if there were any...
In the evening, we headed out for a drive to the sea! 旗津(ChiJin)，西子灣(HsiTzuWan)，中山大學(ZhongShan University, ZhongShan is, of course, Dr. Sun Yat-sen's first name) were some of the names that 陳叔叔 rattled off, not that they made any sense to me : ) but thoughts of a cool sea breeze kept us in a buoyant mood the whole way. We weren't disappointed; after crossing an undersea tunnel, we arrive at the 濱海公園(Marina Park), a vast stretch along the coast set aside as a recreational area for the locals. Statuesque streetlamps, people strolling along the breakers, flickering lights from distant ships, waves gently lapping at the shore...
It was there that I witnessed YJ's and 小J's passion for photography in action. They make a great team--one with an artistic to compose a picture and the other with the technical knowhow to tweak the camera exactly how she wants it to be.
Dinner was never far from our minds. Along the way back to Kaohsiung downtown, we stopped at a stretch of roadside vendors to partake of a local delicacy--
On the way back to the mainland, next to the coast, Chiang Kai-shek's old home stood, now part of 中山大學. We could see his old Rolls-Royce parked in a lonely garage. 陳叔叔 regaled us with tales of how he used to study in that little pavilion next to that garage, how access to the house was regulated by passes and funneled through a long subterrenean tunnel guarded by armed soldiers, how he met 陳阿姨 when they were in college. Those spoken memories lent much life to the surroundings...
Next stop: The famed 85樓 or "85 storeys" buffet, a popular destination for Kaohsiungers who want to treat their friends to a good dinner with a view. Opulent compared to the local eateries and considered a typical example of a high-end restaurant in these parts.
The shrimp/prawns and the tuna sashimi were really fresh and overall the selection was lighter for the palate than that of the Vegas casino buffets. Regrettably I had to pass on the baked desserts after polishing off a succulent sirloin steak. As 陳叔叔 and 陳阿姨 were paying for dinner, I also had to make sure they get their money's worth. So I ate as much as I could (which after the grilled squid, wasn't that much). I ate for my family, for my friends and all those whom I cared about. That night on the 39th floor, I ate for my country and for all that I held dear. Hopefully it was enough : )
While waiting in the car for the ladies to walk around the hotel, I experienced a bonding, karaoke moment with 陳叔叔 : ) He seemed to be a fan of Mandarin pop and as soon as Jacky Cheung started singing an old favourite "朋友(Friend)" from the car stereo, I simply couldn't resist singing along with 陳叔叔 at the top of our voices. Silly as it sounds, that was a defining moment for me because it revealed a softer side of him that I had not seen before. 陳阿姨 had been the chattier of the two and up to that point, I was a little unsure of how to talk to 陳叔叔. But once we began slaughtering the ballad with gusto, all my apprehensions melted away. I could never imagine singing together with my dad, for example. 小J pretended not to hear and discreetly distanced himself from the car : D
That was still not the end of the day! To walk off the obscene amounts of food we consumed, we went up 壽山(Longevity Hill) for a look at Kaohsiung's magnificent skyline.
On the hill, lovers abounded, blissfully oblivious to anything else beyond their immediate radius, including a boisterous karaoke stand a little further away, next to a war memorial.
Our last stop was the harbour front promenades of 西子灣 and 好望台. I don't remember much beyond pretty fountains and walkways, but I remember thinking that Kaohsiung seemed a great place to live in. Wonder how many locals make use of these recreational facilities. As 小J remarked, Taiwan, compared to Hong Kong and Singapore, has a more relaxed balance between materialistic progress and retention of traditions, lifestyles and cultures.
Once we returned home, I collapsed gratefully into bed, dreaming about squid propelling themselves gracefully in the sea and ending up spitted and grilled to a delicious brown.
(Romanization done in Taiwanese style and British spelling used)
When hunger pangs struck next morning, we headed to the corner breakfast place where, as usual, the staff recognized the 陳s(Chen)s on sight and chatted like old friends. I've seldom had such an inexpensive and wonderful breakfast. Sandwiches should be made this way everywhere *yum*.
蛋餅 (too busy wolfing this down and forgot about the sandwich)
Replenished, we headed to the local market.
The sun beat down like a hammer, but every vendor seemed oblivious, enthusiastically touting their wares. Apparently it was a nomadic market, in the sense that different vendors showed up each day, some on alternating days. According to the ladies, one had to spend time unearthing gems. 小J and I quickly wilted though, and after a futile attempt at cooling off by eating some 鳳梨(pineapple) and 蓮霧(wax apple/jambu) topped off with 奶茶青(Milk Tea Green--some things just don't translate smoothly but take my word for it--it's pretty refreshing), we retreated to a nearby air-conditioned (for the umpteenth time, I paid homage to the inventors of air-con) department store to browse magazines. The local department store was just like any other one--comprehensive yet soulless.
Lunch was a superb 米糕(rice cake), a succulent glutinous rice pudding packed with crunchy sliced cucumbers and flavourful pork floss.
In the true tradition of a hot summer's afternoon, activities came to a standstill for a siesta. I could almost hear the crickets chirping in the background if there were any...
In the evening, we headed out for a drive to the sea! 旗津(ChiJin)，西子灣(HsiTzuWan)，中山大學(ZhongShan University, ZhongShan is, of course, Dr. Sun Yat-sen's first name) were some of the names that 陳叔叔 rattled off, not that they made any sense to me : ) but thoughts of a cool sea breeze kept us in a buoyant mood the whole way. We weren't disappointed; after crossing an undersea tunnel, we arrive at the 濱海公園(Marina Park), a vast stretch along the coast set aside as a recreational area for the locals. Statuesque streetlamps, people strolling along the breakers, flickering lights from distant ships, waves gently lapping at the shore...
Sunset
Lights
It was there that I witnessed YJ's and 小J's passion for photography in action. They make a great team--one with an artistic to compose a picture and the other with the technical knowhow to tweak the camera exactly how she wants it to be.
Dinner was never far from our minds. Along the way back to Kaohsiung downtown, we stopped at a stretch of roadside vendors to partake of a local delicacy--
烤小卷(literally, little grilled roll) which consisted of a 6-inch-long squid grilled over a charcoal fire and brushed with a sweet sauce and crunchy sesame seeds.
On the way back to the mainland, next to the coast, Chiang Kai-shek's old home stood, now part of 中山大學. We could see his old Rolls-Royce parked in a lonely garage. 陳叔叔 regaled us with tales of how he used to study in that little pavilion next to that garage, how access to the house was regulated by passes and funneled through a long subterrenean tunnel guarded by armed soldiers, how he met 陳阿姨 when they were in college. Those spoken memories lent much life to the surroundings...
Next stop: The famed 85樓 or "85 storeys" buffet, a popular destination for Kaohsiungers who want to treat their friends to a good dinner with a view. Opulent compared to the local eateries and considered a typical example of a high-end restaurant in these parts.
The shrimp/prawns and the tuna sashimi were really fresh and overall the selection was lighter for the palate than that of the Vegas casino buffets. Regrettably I had to pass on the baked desserts after polishing off a succulent sirloin steak. As 陳叔叔 and 陳阿姨 were paying for dinner, I also had to make sure they get their money's worth. So I ate as much as I could (which after the grilled squid, wasn't that much). I ate for my family, for my friends and all those whom I cared about. That night on the 39th floor, I ate for my country and for all that I held dear. Hopefully it was enough : )
While waiting in the car for the ladies to walk around the hotel, I experienced a bonding, karaoke moment with 陳叔叔 : ) He seemed to be a fan of Mandarin pop and as soon as Jacky Cheung started singing an old favourite "朋友(Friend)" from the car stereo, I simply couldn't resist singing along with 陳叔叔 at the top of our voices. Silly as it sounds, that was a defining moment for me because it revealed a softer side of him that I had not seen before. 陳阿姨 had been the chattier of the two and up to that point, I was a little unsure of how to talk to 陳叔叔. But once we began slaughtering the ballad with gusto, all my apprehensions melted away. I could never imagine singing together with my dad, for example. 小J pretended not to hear and discreetly distanced himself from the car : D
That was still not the end of the day! To walk off the obscene amounts of food we consumed, we went up 壽山(Longevity Hill) for a look at Kaohsiung's magnificent skyline.
A wonderful panorama of 高雄, courtesy of 小J
On the hill, lovers abounded, blissfully oblivious to anything else beyond their immediate radius, including a boisterous karaoke stand a little further away, next to a war memorial.
Our last stop was the harbour front promenades of 西子灣 and 好望台. I don't remember much beyond pretty fountains and walkways, but I remember thinking that Kaohsiung seemed a great place to live in. Wonder how many locals make use of these recreational facilities. As 小J remarked, Taiwan, compared to Hong Kong and Singapore, has a more relaxed balance between materialistic progress and retention of traditions, lifestyles and cultures.
Once we returned home, I collapsed gratefully into bed, dreaming about squid propelling themselves gracefully in the sea and ending up spitted and grilled to a delicious brown.
(Romanization done in Taiwanese style and British spelling used)
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)