Monday, May 26, 2008

群馬舞茸そば

群馬舞茸そば
群馬舞茸そば


This was savoured during a weekend trip to Gunma prefecture, north of Tokyo. A natural, relatively earthquake-free region.

Other titbits:
Natural groundwater: Huge Shinkansen (bullet train) tunnels were dug through the mountains of this prefecture. Abundant supplies of natural groundwater were discovered, resulting in a thriving spring water industry. Our bed-and-breakfast proudly served natural Gunma water.

Ghosts following us home from firefly cemetery: After dinner, before we set off for a trail to view fireflies, the kindly host lady warned us to be careful not to bring "dirty things" home as the trail goes through a graveyard.

Empty school buildings along the way to the convenience store added to a fun eeriness. At night, the windows look like gaping eyes and mouths, and as with any place that is bustling in the day and deserted at night, one projected lingering echoes of the daytime activities into the still of the night.

Down the ropeway

Down the ropeway
Down the ropeway in 谷川岳

Mountain Shrine

Mountain Shrine
Mountain Shrine

Salt-grilled freshwater fish

Salt-grilled freshwater fish
Salt-grilled freshwater fish--at a local Minakami restaurant

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

A temple of many deities

In Tainan (台南), after satisfying our palates, we sought out 鹿耳門, a famous local temple, for some spiritual nourishment. As you can see in the pictures, that place was huge, and could be packed with pilgrims on a good day, but on the day we went it was largely serene.

Temple of Mazu
Temple of Mazu


YJ and 小J went about snapping pictures while their parents and me stopped by each deity to pay our respects. Every few minutes, a large bell would toll in deep, dutiful tones which echo all around the halls. A lot of faith and effort and money had gone into its construction and I could almost sense the piety and belief of all those worshipers who came before me.

Inner courtyard
Inner courtyard


"Dear Buddha, please bless my family with good health and happiness."

"Great Mazu, goddess of the sea, please keep this world at peace."

"Emperor of Heaven, please accept my greetings and bestow your blessings upon us."

Rescuing loved ones from an angry sea
Rescuing loved ones from an angry sea


Amidst the fragrance of incense smoke and gentle murmurs of other visitors, I paid my respects to almost all of the deities who resided in 鹿耳門.

But the most interesting incident was yet to come. "Hey, hey! On the 3rd floor, quick, go!" YJ's mum beckoned to me happily. "Go pay your respects to the 月下老人。”

The 月下老人 was supposedly a kindly old man with a pet heron who visited an Emperor of the Tang Dynasty one moonlit night and correctly foretold who his future wife would be. He had since been beatified and is the deity whom millions go to in search of love.

However when I went upstairs, I had no idea what he looked like! Memories of red threads (one for each person, that links to his/her other half), herons and a full moon from childhood tales floated in my head, but I just couldn't put a face to the name...

Nope, this deity looks too fierce, this one's a lady, that one over there, can't be holding such a huge sword, nope, nope, not that one either. That's Zhong Kui, the Ghost Hunter. Those whom I wasn't quite sure, I prayed to anyway, just in case ;)

Clues started to appear; as I rounded a corner, I saw photos, dozens and dozens of photos of happy couples, beaming from every available space on the walls! Apparently, testimonies to the romance-bestowing powers of this ancient Chinese Cupid. And there he was, smiling down on me beside his graceful heron. Poor old man, I wonder where his other half is?

I made my wish, thanked him, and left, strangely feeling lighter of heart.

Monday, May 19, 2008

安平 specialties

Anping Tofu "Jelly"
Anping Tofu "Jelly"


Smooth as silk
Smooth as silk


"Free if it isn't tasty"
"Free if it isn't tasty"

Kaohsiung Day 4: Nostalgic bites

Days of absorbing new yet sometimes familiar sights, sounds, tastes, and smells left me hungering for more. I was most impressed by the people I met on the streets. Hospitable, friendly, schooled in the ways of life yet humble and very approachable. Eatery staff who'd tell me not to buy too much in case the egg puffs go bad. Bubble-tea vendors who'd enquire after J's parents, cousins, uncles' little dogs, etc. It all harked back to an olden time.

This day saw us drive to 台南 (Tainan), J's mum's hometown, to visit her aunt. My education of things Taiwanese continued in the car: did I know that there are different grades of Taiwan-grown pineapples, all named after precious stones? That Chiang Kai-shek's descendants did more for the country than him? For example, all over the country, busts of this rogue-ish general were being dismantled to make way for more deserving candidates. Not forgetting that Chiang Kai-shek International Airport had been renamed Taiwan International Airport.

It was my second trip to Tainan; the history of this historic city never failed to fascinate me. A Dutch colony in the distant past, it also witnessed the landing of 鄭和(Zheng He) (curiously named Koxinga by the Dutch afterwards), the legendary Ming Dynasty enunch/naval explorer who extended the Chinese kingdom's reach throughout much of Asia (and some say, discovered North America before "Columbus sailed the ocean blue") But I will let the historians to debate this...

More importantly ;) lunch was about to begin at a traditional eatery:

Nostalgic Bites
Nostalgic Bites


Apparently simplicity and nostalgia was the menu of the day and murmurs of delight soon greeted each humble dish as it arrived:

Oyster Omelette
Oyster omelette


Clam soup
Clam soup


More food
More food


Iced crispy yams
A pretty special dessert: Iced crispy yams
This was unlike anything I've ever eaten--yams fried and coated with sugar before being dipped into iced water. The cold crystallized the outer layer of sugar, making the entire slice delightfully crispy.

Kaohsiung's new subway system

Kaohsiung's new subway system
Kaohsiung's new subway system

Love and Bliss

Seen at the Kaohsiung Town Hall:

An entry of love
An entry of love


Bliss
Bliss

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Kaohsiung Day 3: The Southern Coast

高雄(Kaohsiung) is 台灣(Taiwan)'s largest southernmost city; she boasts a thriving city center, rustic suburbs, a bustling fishing port and even tropical fruit plantations. The weather is less humid than that of Singapore's (read: pretty darn warm) Pineapples, guavas, wax apples(jambu), bananas and coconuts are some of the more famous exports. To her southeast, the seaside resort of 墾丁(Kenting) awaits--a popular surfing and picnicking destination for locals and tourists alike. 東港(East Port) the fishing port even has a 鮪魚(tuna) auction not unlike that of Tokyo's 築地(Tsukiji) Fish Market. To my untrained palate, the quality of 東港's tuna sashimi is comparable to that of 築地's and of course, less expensive.

The 3rd day began with a solitary trip to the corner breakfast place because the Chen's were gone to run errands by the time I was up. Only 小J was snoozing. Did I mention that Kaohsiung's residents were all very friendly and everyone we asked for directions obliged with a smile? The breakfast lady was no exception; she actually remembered me from the day before and we chatted happily while she prepared the yummy sandwiches. I wanted to get a burger but she actually advised me not to! Because, "Your marginal utility won't be all that great by the time you get to the burger," or something to that effect! Wow. Best of all, she actually asked me to help open a tightly-shut new jar of sauce... to me that was a sign of acceptance into the neighborhood.

I mean, people in the food & beverage business are trained to be polite to customers and all, and usually one wouldn't ask a customer for help. At least I can't imagine something like this happening in Japan, where good service is taken for granted yet a well demarcation exists between store personnel and customers. In a way, being asked to unscrew a jar made my day. (Isn't it nice to be so easily satisfied? ;P)

But I digress... on this day, we are headed for the southern coast of Taiwan, a tropical region of smaller towns, beaches and natural sights. Kenting, a famous surfing resort town, awaited.

Hopped into the car, placed a potted plant in the driveway to deter illegal parking, and off we went, driving past 東港(where the best 鲔鱼 or tuna could be found) and 恆春(Eternal Spring).

For lunch, it was imperative that we stopped at a place that sold Chinese medicinal herb-flavored dishes like vermicelli or

藥膳面線
藥膳面線


Their 龟鳞糕(Guilinggao) was also very good and the ladies were particularly happy to partake of this herbal jelly which purportedly was beneficial for one's complexion. The origins of 龟鳞糕 were always interesting to read about.

Anyone who has been around fumaroles, mudpots and steam vents in places like Yellowstone Nat'l Park probably cannot fail to be awed at the forces that laid just beneath our earth's crust. Well, Taiwan also has many hot springs and other traces of simmering underground activity, for we encountered an interesting phenomenon next:

Natural gas fire
Natural gas fire.


Someone (don't ask me how!) found natural, flammable gas emitting from the ground and took a lit match to all available fissures, ensuring a perpetual campfire over which the local residents could roast yams and sweet potatoes. Recently, that area became a designated natural monument sort of place.

"佳樂水(Jialeshui), 佳樂水," Uncle and Auntie Chen kept saying along the way. Catchy name, but what on earth was it, I wondered, as YJ and 小J snored away beside me on the backseat. We entered Kenting National Park, a vast expanse set aside for recreation and conservation.

The answer came shortly as we drew up to an arched entrance and a ticket booth. "Welcome to Jialeshui" signs adorned the simple yet fitting entrance along with pamphlets advertising a very intriguing "Flying Fish season." Flying fish, eh?! But I still had no idea until we drove through a narrow road lined by palm trees and arrived at a huge parking lot overlooking the ocean.

"Quick, the tour bus is just about to leave!" shooed Auntie Chen as we scrambled onboard a refurbished pickup truck. Pictures of weird rock formations revealed the nature of the tour and I finally realized, oh, we're going on a coastal drive!

And... the driver started speaking in Taiwanese, which always sounded very nostalgic but cryptic to me because my grandparents used to speak a variant of it. To think I would hear it in the present day on a national park tour! :D

So the geography and language lessons began...

Pig on its side, with trotters in the air
Pig on its side, with trotters in the air



A Snail
A Snail



The Frog Prince
The Frog Prince



Portrait of 觀音, the Goddess of Mercy
Portrait of 觀音, the Goddess of Mercy



Oink!
Oink!



Map of Taiwan
Map of Taiwan



Mickey!
Mickey!



In a nutshell, this was:

Jialeshui
Jialeshui


No time to lose, if we are to be back in Kaohsiung's 東港 by dinnertime, we should start driving towards the southern tip of Taiwan. Rain drops started splattering on the rocks and with 小J muttering that it always rained whenever he visited Jialeshui, we hit the road again. Too bad we didn't see any flying fish...

Southernmost point
Southernmost point


There we were, as far south as one could go on Formosa. It reminded me of Key West in the Florida Keys and the "Southernmost point" there. The Philippines laid just a few hundred kilometers away and we could almost glimpse her coastline. Around us, occasionally, radar installations poked their heads out from amidst the foliage in the surrounding hills. The rain had long since stopped, leaving just a hint of moisture in the now cooler air.

As we made our way back up north, little towns mostly inhabited by 客家人(the Hakka ethnicity) and by the 原住民(Taiwan Aborigines if you will although I find the term slightly condescending for people who lived on the island long before the first European colonists. But perhaps long ago they had taken over the place from someone else. We territorial humans...). Like native Americans, 原住民 have a history of oppression and one joke "they" quip is that 外省人(people who moved to Taiwan from mainland China) bully 客家人(also from the mainland but were living in Taiwan long before the mass Kuomintang exodus) who, in turn, bully 原住民 and finally 原住民 "bully" the animals of Taiwan. BUT, due to recent animal conservation and poaching laws, even the animals lord it over 原住民 nowadays!

I think 原住民 rock.

Thursday, May 08, 2008

Kaohsiung Day 2: Downtown

It was typical summer weather--28 degrees C but thanks to a special cooling bamboo bedsheet(reminiscent of the gongfu-enhancing 冰床 in 神雕俠呂) and a standing fan, I slept in comfort. The night before, I was stupid enough to watch, together with YJ and 小J, a talkshow on supernatural activity in Taiwan, particularly that involving dead relatives coming back in dreams to express dissatisfaction at their funeral arrangements or to protest against their untimely deaths. Watching this type of eerie show right before I was to sleep alone in an unfamiliar house was not really a good idea... fortunately the night was uneventful.

When hunger pangs struck next morning, we headed to the corner breakfast place where, as usual, the staff recognized the 陳s(Chen)s on sight and chatted like old friends. I've seldom had such an inexpensive and wonderful breakfast. Sandwiches should be made this way everywhere *yum*.

蛋餅
蛋餅 (too busy wolfing this down and forgot about the sandwich)


Replenished, we headed to the local market.

The sun beat down like a hammer, but every vendor seemed oblivious, enthusiastically touting their wares. Apparently it was a nomadic market, in the sense that different vendors showed up each day, some on alternating days. According to the ladies, one had to spend time unearthing gems. 小J and I quickly wilted though, and after a futile attempt at cooling off by eating some 鳳梨(pineapple) and 蓮霧(wax apple/jambu) topped off with 奶茶青(Milk Tea Green--some things just don't translate smoothly but take my word for it--it's pretty refreshing), we retreated to a nearby air-conditioned (for the umpteenth time, I paid homage to the inventors of air-con) department store to browse magazines. The local department store was just like any other one--comprehensive yet soulless.

米糕
Lunch was a superb 米糕(rice cake), a succulent glutinous rice pudding packed with crunchy sliced cucumbers and flavourful pork floss.


In the true tradition of a hot summer's afternoon, activities came to a standstill for a siesta. I could almost hear the crickets chirping in the background if there were any...

In the evening, we headed out for a drive to the sea! 旗津(ChiJin),西子灣(HsiTzuWan),中山大學(ZhongShan University, ZhongShan is, of course, Dr. Sun Yat-sen's first name) were some of the names that 陳叔叔 rattled off, not that they made any sense to me : ) but thoughts of a cool sea breeze kept us in a buoyant mood the whole way. We weren't disappointed; after crossing an undersea tunnel, we arrive at the 濱海公園(Marina Park), a vast stretch along the coast set aside as a recreational area for the locals. Statuesque streetlamps, people strolling along the breakers, flickering lights from distant ships, waves gently lapping at the shore...

A perfect sunset Kodak moment
Sunset


Lights
Lights


It was there that I witnessed YJ's and 小J's passion for photography in action. They make a great team--one with an artistic to compose a picture and the other with the technical knowhow to tweak the camera exactly how she wants it to be.

Dinner was never far from our minds. Along the way back to Kaohsiung downtown, we stopped at a stretch of roadside vendors to partake of a local delicacy--

烤小卷
烤小卷(literally, little grilled roll) which consisted of a 6-inch-long squid grilled over a charcoal fire and brushed with a sweet sauce and crunchy sesame seeds.

Juicy, hot, tender, I finished one despite warnings of high cholesterol content.

烤小卷


On the way back to the mainland, next to the coast, Chiang Kai-shek's old home stood, now part of 中山大學. We could see his old Rolls-Royce parked in a lonely garage. 陳叔叔 regaled us with tales of how he used to study in that little pavilion next to that garage, how access to the house was regulated by passes and funneled through a long subterrenean tunnel guarded by armed soldiers, how he met 陳阿姨 when they were in college. Those spoken memories lent much life to the surroundings...

Next stop: The famed 85樓 or "85 storeys" buffet, a popular destination for Kaohsiungers who want to treat their friends to a good dinner with a view. Opulent compared to the local eateries and considered a typical example of a high-end restaurant in these parts.

The shrimp/prawns and the tuna sashimi were really fresh and overall the selection was lighter for the palate than that of the Vegas casino buffets. Regrettably I had to pass on the baked desserts after polishing off a succulent sirloin steak. As 陳叔叔 and 陳阿姨 were paying for dinner, I also had to make sure they get their money's worth. So I ate as much as I could (which after the grilled squid, wasn't that much). I ate for my family, for my friends and all those whom I cared about. That night on the 39th floor, I ate for my country and for all that I held dear. Hopefully it was enough : )

While waiting in the car for the ladies to walk around the hotel, I experienced a bonding, karaoke moment with 陳叔叔 : ) He seemed to be a fan of Mandarin pop and as soon as Jacky Cheung started singing an old favourite "朋友(Friend)" from the car stereo, I simply couldn't resist singing along with 陳叔叔 at the top of our voices. Silly as it sounds, that was a defining moment for me because it revealed a softer side of him that I had not seen before. 陳阿姨 had been the chattier of the two and up to that point, I was a little unsure of how to talk to 陳叔叔. But once we began slaughtering the ballad with gusto, all my apprehensions melted away. I could never imagine singing together with my dad, for example. 小J pretended not to hear and discreetly distanced himself from the car : D

That was still not the end of the day! To walk off the obscene amounts of food we consumed, we went up 壽山(Longevity Hill) for a look at Kaohsiung's magnificent skyline.

高雄 panorama
A wonderful panorama of 高雄, courtesy of 小J


On the hill, lovers abounded, blissfully oblivious to anything else beyond their immediate radius, including a boisterous karaoke stand a little further away, next to a war memorial.

Our last stop was the harbour front promenades of 西子灣 and 好望台. I don't remember much beyond pretty fountains and walkways, but I remember thinking that Kaohsiung seemed a great place to live in. Wonder how many locals make use of these recreational facilities. As 小J remarked, Taiwan, compared to Hong Kong and Singapore, has a more relaxed balance between materialistic progress and retention of traditions, lifestyles and cultures.

Once we returned home, I collapsed gratefully into bed, dreaming about squid propelling themselves gracefully in the sea and ending up spitted and grilled to a delicious brown.

(Romanization done in Taiwanese style and British spelling used)

The 3 T's for Singapore's creative class?

The article below is somewhat dated but I found it interesting nevertheless when thinking about its implications on Singapore. Also happy to note which university Prof. Florida, the academic cited here, is from(Go Tartans!). I would propose a additional 'T' in Singapore's case--namely "Temperature". That would be a negative factor for the rise of the creative class on the island, I'm afraid. It's also funny to note that since this book came about, obviously some government official read it because in the years since then, Singapore has become more and more accepting of homosexuals(one of the factors covered under "Tolerance") in her usual government-prompted ways--legalized gay bars, permitted bartop dancing ( my gawd! :) ) for example.

Yet I see many signs that Singaporeans are beginning to venture out on their own. Many old friends started their own companies doing a variety of stuff. Dare I say that the air seems less stifling nowadays?

(source: The Sunday Times (Singapore) 14 July 2002, by Zuraidah Ibrahim)

Where the creative class goes, success follows, their presence of absence can make or break a city.

Technology, talent, tolerance. They define the new creative class which a city must attract and retain, says a new major US study. ZURAIDAH IBRAHIM explores the issue FOR Singapore to thrive economically, it must accept immigrant talent, artists and homosexuals. At least, that is what a major new study of American cities suggests.

Richard Florida, a professor of regional development at Carnegie Mellon University, surveyed 49 urban centres with populations of at least one million, to try to discover the secrets of economic dynamism.

His findings, contained in a book published last month, point to the importance of what he calls the 'creative class'. He defines this class as that band of people whose job is to create new ideas, new technology and/or new creative content.

They include not just people in science and engineering but also architecture and design, education, arts, music and entertainment and other cultural producers. They see themselves as separate from two other classes - the working class and the service class.

Where the creative class goes, success follows. Their presence or absence can make or break a city, Prof Florida argues. Right now, they make up about 30 per cent of the American workforce.

His book, The Rise of the Creative Class, has created a buzz in the US, where there has always been fierce competition between regions for investments and jobs.

He rejects the infrastructure approach of the many regions that are trying to clone Silicon Valley by creating R&D parks, office complexes, technology incubators and the like.

'This is essentially betting the future on an economic development model from the past,' says Prof Florida. Especially controversial is his contention that cultural and lifestyle factors have hard economic impacts.

The creative class is not just peopled by 'knowledge workers' but also by bohemians that are not normally associated with high economic productivity.

Florida rejects the long-held belief that workers move to where companies and jobs are. The creative class has other motives when choosing where to live. The 'power of place' has never been more important than for the creative class, he argues. The creative class wants to be where there is a happening scene, a pulsating music and arts environment, and a tolerant and diverse population. Thus, a city needs to focus on getting the right 'people climate'.

'This entails remaining open to diversity and actively working to cultivate it, and investing in the lifestyle amenities that people really want and use often,' he says.

Based on his focus groups and a range of astute observations, he points out that the creative class prefers an eclectic range of activities where music and the arts are equally prized alongside technical innovation.

Prof Florida offers the theory that economically successful cities that can attract and retain the creative class are those that possess the three Ts - technology, talent and tolerance.

So how do homosexuals come into the equation? Gays are a proxy determinant of how tolerant and diverse a place is. 'To some extent, homosexuality represents the last frontier of diversity in our society, and thus a place that welcomes the gay community welcomes all kinds of people,' says Prof Florida. Cities that have gays and bohemians in abundance are more likely to have creative class workers, a deep high-tech industry and consequently, strong economic growth.

Florida tethers this argument to various statistical findings. He applies a 'Gay Index', constructed by a fellow Carnegie Mellon academic, to rank regions by their concentrations of gay people. He also devises a bohemian index, which measures the number of artists, musicians and the like. After crunching the numbers, he finds that there is a strong correlation between high concentrations of gays and bohemians on the one hand, and economic performance on the other.

The gay and bohemian indices are related to the depth of cities' high-technology industry, measured by the size of their software, electronics and engineering sectors.

Put simply, where there are gays, there are geeks and vice-versa.

Based on his studies, he concludes that San Francisco is the most creative city in the US, followed by Austin, Texas, and San Diego, California. San Francisco has the highest concentration of high-tech savvy people, high-tech industries, and a high degree of innovation, as measured by patents filed per capita. Long known as the gay capital of the US, it unsurprisingly scores high on the bohemian and gay indices.

Even when the extreme case of San Francisco is removed from the analysis, Florida still finds a high correlation between high numbers of gays and high number of high-tech industries.

He says that Austin as well as Dublin, Ireland, are two cities that 'get it' in their bid to draw the creative class. He contrasts them with his own hometown, Pittsburgh.

Pittsburgh, despite being a university town with high rankings on innovation and technology, is not successful at retaining talent. His diagnosis: Pittsburgh, an industrial town that has been an innovator in many fields, is a city trapped in the success of its past.

The problem is not about economics alone but a rigid culture and attitudes that drive away talented people. And as they leave, the impetus for change also goes with them.

Reactions in the US to the book have been mixed. City leaders are beating down his door to hire Prof Florida as a consultant, but some fellow academics have described it as a faddish piece of work. Mr Edward Glaeser, a Harvard economist, points out that the theory fails to account for the sterling success of non-tech centres like Las Vegas, which ranks 47 out of the 49 cities surveyed on the creativity index.

In many ways, the ingredients that Prof Florida finds in those cities that 'get it' are the same ones that Singapore has on its own checklist of plans that are in progress, whether it is in creating top-notch universities, investing heavily in R&D and creating a 'Renaissance City' that pulsates with life and its nurturing of the arts.

However, there are other features that are less compatible with Singapore's approach. In particular, Prof Florida is not impressed by cities that emphasise only the needs of traditional nuclear families. He notes that the leaders of many cities want to cater exclusively to married couples with stable family lives in the middle and upper-income brackets. But this is not the way to build a great city, because 'a successful city needs a range of options to suit all kinds of people', most importantly young talent.

The book is also scathing about cities that have developed as copycat reproductions of other cities, with 'canned experiences', such as large retail malls and theme attractions. The creative class, the author says, desires authenticity in the settings it finds itself in. His argument resonates with the appeals by architects and artists in Singapore who have opposed the Government's headlong rush to renew the city and develop theme parks like Sentosa and Chinatown, at the expense of authentic local colour.

He acknowledges that the creative class can be a fickle lot. They change their minds and move on.

What security is there for cities like Singapore? Unfortunately, he does not have an answer.

Still, providing amenities and focusing on the arts are proposals that are easier to swallow for a conservative city than the idea of emulating San Francisco's bohemian and gay scene. In Singapore, nuclear families are the norm, making up 82 per cent of households. How much diversity can Singapore tolerate without unsettling those parents who want to raise their children in a culturally safe or even conservative environment?

Is it possible to embrace the bohemians and gays and yet remain a traditional family-affirming place? Are there cities that have made that transition from an emphasis on conservative family values towards more tolerance for the creative class?

In an interview with Sunday Review, Prof Florida says this is what virtually all top-scoring US cities have done. The transition towards more liberal values occurs as part of economic development.

He says that Singapore, like other cities that want to succeed, has no choice. Otherwise, it will be in trouble: 'Because its creative class will leave and migrate.'

* * * * *

Comparing cities: San Francisco and Singapore

Richard Florida in his new book, The Rise of the Creative Class, identifies San Francisco as the most creative city in the United States based on several measurements. How does Singapore compare?

While statistical comparisons are hard to come by, here are some observations of similarity and difference.

BOHEMIANS AND GAYS IN THE CITY

San Francisco
The city has a strong gay community, and is among the most progressive in the country in its attitudes to homosexuality. Local politicians have run for election openly as homosexuals. The mayor, Mr Willie Brown, has officiated at gay 'marriages'.

In the 1960s, the Bay Area was a centre of hippie culture. It continues to attract artists and musicians, although in the last few years, many have complained about being driven out by high rents due to the dot.com boom.

San Franciscans pride themselves on their own local music, authors and artists.

Singapore:
Homosexual sex continues to be illegal, and gays have been stopped from organising themselves officially. The Government says that it will not go out of its way to enforce the law, but that the majority of Singaporeans are not ready for homosexuality to enter mainstream culture.

Gay culture therefore remains underground.

Places for artists to gather, while growing, are not comparable to San Francisco. Artists complain that Singaporeans' materialistic culture makes it hard for young people to choose alternative paths.

HIGH-TECH INDUSTRY

San Francisco:
The city's backyard is Silicon Valley, which has been the hot-bed of technological innovation for almost half a century. Silicon Valley is the headquarters to some of the biggest tech companies in the world, including Intel, Hewlett Packard, Sun Microsystems, Apple and Oracle.

In the 1990s, the San Francisco Bay area ranked No. 2 in the number of patents filed in the country, or about 49,120 patents in a population of 6.5 million, or about 0.7 [Error! See footnote 1] patents annually per 1,000 people.

Singapore:
Creative Technology is about the only homegrown high-tech company of note. While it does not have many homegrown tech giants, Singapore is the regional headquarters to a number of tech firms. The number of patents granted last year was 7,570, or about 1.9 patents per 1,000 people.

More than 97 per cent of these were filed by non-residents, including multi-nationals such as IBM and Sony.

So, bohemians need not apply?

In another study released earlier this year, sociologist Robert Cushing of the University of Texas reported that conservative cities with durable social institutions tend to be less creative.

His study of 100 American cities concludes that 'individualistic and polarised communities' where talented people of diverse backgrounds junk tradition, join boycotts, sign petitions and participate in local reform groups, are the very cities of ideas.

Responding to a report of that study, Straits Times correspondent Andy Ho, in a commentary piece published in The Straits Times on June 7, 2002, argued instead that Singapore should not adopt a hands-off approach.

'For one thing, bohemianism simply leads to dissipation, but creativity is hard work. For another, intervening in the creative process may actually help creativity,' he asserted.

He cited author John Irving, who first made his name with the bestseller, The World According to Garp, as saying his writing is 'one-eighth talent and seven-eighths discipline'.

'His own students who succeed creatively, he observes, are not the most talented ones but, rather, those with the greatest stamina, and who are obsessed with writing well,' the columnist said. 'More must be done to create opportunity, space and time for people to learn the work skills necessary to do deeply-engaging work. Those skills may cross disciplinary lines.'

But, he maintained, 'there is no need to smash durable institutions'.

Fostering creativity calls not for a hands-off approach but, rather, principled and targeted intervention. Intervening to promote multi-disciplinary training and trans-disciplinary work can lead to new ideas, he said.

Coincidentally, in a letter to the Business Times, Dr Linda Lim, the Singapore-born Professor of Corporate Strategy and International Business at the University of Michigan Business School, made the point that foreign talent is not the mobile workforce that soapbox columnist Rod Wyatt made it out to be.

There are many reasons for the relatively shorter stay of competent expatriates in Singapore, but the lack of a night-life is not one of them. 'It is quite possible that the availability of night-life matters more to...'fly-by-nighters' who are less likely to be committed to a particular location and thus more likely to turn over in their jobs and countries for superficial reasons,' Dr Lim wrote.

She said that most expatriates she knew were motivated more by career challenge and opportunities for personal growth than the availability of night entertainment.

MELTING POT

San Francisco:
In 2000, about 28 per cent of the San Francisco Bay area population were foreign-born, an increase of 60 per cent since 1990. Asians and Hispanics account for two-thirds of the immigrants. Immigrants may come into the area as hired foreigners but soon become their own bosses, founding more than one-third of start-ups.

Singapore:
In 2000, one in four people living in Singapore were not citizens or permanent residents. The Republic is trying systematically to attract foreign talent. While the Government has cited several numbers to show how they contribute to the economy, many Singaporeans are unconvinced that the right type of talent is entering the country.

* The study covers 49 cities with over a million people ** The rankings are based on:
* The 'creative class' share of the workforce
* The number of patents filed per capita
* The presence of high-tech industry as measured by the software companies and the strength of the engineering sectors

Footnotes
1. The Sunday Times made a computational error here. The ratio should be 7.6 per 1,000, not 0.7

Tuesday, May 06, 2008

Kaohsiung Day 1: First glimpse

My affection for 台湾 (Taiwan) remains unabated and continues to deepen ever so steadily, thanks to a recent visit to 高雄 (Kaohsiung) and a few southern counties.

Before proceeding, I'd like to express a HUGE thank-you! to YJ, 小J, and their parents for graciously hosting me! Besides giving me my own bathroom and bedroom in their house, they treated me to a vast array of local specialties and made sure I became thoroughly familar with Kaohsiung's history, prominent landmarks, culture and people.

I arrived on a clear evening onboard a Dragonair flight from 香港 (Hong Kong). The Captain's name was "Maxmax," I noted with a guffaw. Probably only a Hong Konger would have that kind of name : ) Flight time to 高雄: one hour. A middle-aged Taiwanese gentleman sat next to me, concentrating on the latest political news and scandals. He was of the gruff but nice variety, saying little beyond a few grunts yet always helping me with my food tray and cups.

A flight attendant came by with immigration forms. I still don't know what it is about most Taiwanese girls that makes me melt everytime they speak!?! Even a wonderfully romantic, "Sir, do you need an immigration form?" was enough to render me speechless and quite incapable of an intelligent reply. I stared wistfully after she continued down the aisle. Must be something to do with resonant frequency or pitch, I think...

At KHH airport, I was aghast to see YJ, 小J _and_ their parents waiting at the arrival gate. That was my first insight into their generous hospitality, and for the subsequent few days, they ensured that I was never found wanting for anything.

Dinner was first and foremost on our agenda as we left the airport. It was only about 15 minutes from downtown 高雄. 陳叔叔 (Uncle Chen) gave an introduction to the city along the way, saying how nice it had become and proudly pointing out the solar-powered streetlamps that lit up a long section of the highway. First stop:

鱔魚面
鱔魚面(Eel noodles), and then


牛排
牛排(Beef steak), accompanied by


炒小卷
炒小卷(Stir-fried squid) and finally topped off with


冰
"冰"("Ice") which was really a cold dessert containing flour balls and jellies with different sweet fillings topped off with shaved ice in a sweet syrup. Yum!


How to eat 冰
Not forgetting how to eat 冰 the right way, of course.


And all for less than USD10! I regretted ever eating lunch and dinner on the plane but I simply could not resist finishing every single scrap.

One thing I really appreciated about 陳叔叔和陳阿姨 (Uncle and Auntie Chen) was that they treated me like a favorite nephew or younger relative and it was easy to forget that I was just their kids' friend whom they had met only once before. After dinner, we waddled over to their cousin's place just down the street for a nice chat before returning to their home. Stuffed as I was, I was already looking forward to the 蛋餅(egg pancake),三文治(sandwich) and 豆漿(soybean milk) at the corner breakfast place.

Monday, May 05, 2008

Lord Archer's signature


"A Prisoner of Birth", the latest novel by Jeffrey Archer proved as interesting as its reviews extol it to be. I took advantage of a stopover in Hong Kong Airport to quickly read as much of this bestseller as possible but unfortunately I managed only up to page 159. The cast and plot were absorbing; I especially enjoyed the author's use of British wit to endear each character to the reader and to dramatize each twist of the tale.

The author himself seemed like an interesting person. He served time at Her Majesty's pleasure and he's a Lord? I'll have to read his life story sometime...

"Sir, the book you're holding has Lord Archer's signature," remarked the salesgirl suddenly. She must have noticed me standing there, reading the same book for the past hour but I detected a genuine desire to reach out to a customer.

"Oh wow, really?" I raised an eyebrow and flipped to the first few pages.

To be honest, I was kind of patronizing her because she had interrupted me just as the main character was about to learn his fate for the next 22 years, but true enough, the first page contained something that looked like a name scribbled in black marker ink.

"Yes sir, we only have five signed copies available," she explained and politely left me to my reading.

Pretty cool, I thought. But I had the familiar book-lover's dilemma of should I succumb to temptation and buy the book or should I spare this book the indignity of being read once every year and used as a dust-collector for the rest of the time?

In the end, practicality won. But I will be back to see you win your freedom back and be reunited with Beth, Danny, I promise.