Here it all began... tour buses dropped off happy, smiling hikers--young & old, armed to the teeth with the latest gear or dressed to the nines in clothes perhaps more suitable for strutting along Omotesando in.
Still deceptively flat and cooler than expected. The trail was somewhat gravelly but grainy enough to feel slight soft underfoot. Many other hikers were walking in double-file, and almost everyone coming the other way (downhill) wore an expression of such fatigue and utter bleakness that I began to question my decision to ascend this symbol of Japan.
Mostly volcanic rock on the way up; hard, knobby but non-slippery surfaces with plenty of handholds around. Won't be pleasant to come down on, I thought to myself. Everyone was still relatively perky at that point and looking up, we could see the little rest huts and a constant stream of hikers stretching up as far as the eye could see.
Caught up with the lowest vestiges of the ever-ascending clouds, borne upwards by the hot lowland drafts. As the moisture get swept up, they provide shade for us hikers and kept the snow from melting completely. In a long-sleeved, I started to feel a little chilly.
At the 8th station, we supped and napped until about 10:30pm. The rest house, 東洋館(TouYouKan), was very new compared to the others before it and I was happy tp sink into the clean futon and blankets after dinner. Dinner was a set meal consisting of a hamburger steak and miso soup. Sorry L for forgetting that you don't eat red meat!
Time: 22:30. Gathered outside with all gear and two additional layers of clothing. Almost lost L and L in the crowd as the guide did a rollcall. A long string of lights meandered its way up the mountain. Air of anticipation. Temperature: 3C, 0C with windchill
For a while, it was "step where the person in front stepped before and continue upwards" as we climbed a layer of volcanic rock. The guide said it was a good thing that we couldn't see our surroundings otherwise more people would throw in the towel. Several members of our group started vomiting and experiencing altitude sickness, but stoically pressed on. The winds got stronger gradually but my resolve was strengthened by the morning rays peeping over the horizon.
Fellow hikers trudge up patiently, tired but never giving up on reaching the summit in time for the sunrise. Would we make it in time, I wonder?
The sun god opens his eyes, sending golden rays across a sea of clouds. Almost there, not sure how much more to go, but I felt revitalized and a spring returned to my limbs. It was cold and exertion was the only way to keep warm. Tried to stay close to the group perhaps because it's Japan and the need to stick with your herd was emphasized by the guide, even on the mountain.
And let there be LIGHT
The destination is definitely better than the journey
Riding the warm air currents
Can't wait to get down and into the onsen!
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